The 6 Best Approach Shoes of 2024 (2024)

Best Approach and Trail Running Hybrid

Scarpa Rapid

Sole Rubber: Vibram MegaGrip | Upper Material: Mesh, PU

The Scarpa Rapid is built for the growing segment of climbers who want an approach shoe that is comfortable, capable of light scrambling to get to the crag, and versatile enough to use as a running shoe for fast alpine missions and ridge traverses. When boiled down, this is a running shoe with sticky rubber to improve security during exposed moves. It is also a great everyday shoe that can double as an approach shoe for rocky trails on the way to the crag.

Don't expect much climbing performance, support, or durability from these shoes. Just like any other running shoe, when you take it into vertical and technical terrain of consequence, you might wish you were wearing a more technical approach shoe like the Scarpa Crux. These aren't the holy grail "running shoes that can also climb 5.7" that many were hoping for, but it's a great choice if your running adventures occasionally lead you into the vertical realm.

Read more: Scarpa Rapid review

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Why You Should Trust Us

Our time-tested approach to gear reviews starts by doing market research on all of the available models, and comparing them to the products we have tested over the years. We look at product specifications and design, and draw on anecdotal evidence to select the best products for side-by-side testing. Over months and sometimes years, we approached, scrambled, descended, hiked, schlepped, and slogged in each pair of shoes, as well as performing specific objective tests and climbing selected routes.

Our testing and scoring of approach shoes is divided into five performance metrics:

• Climbing Ability (30% of overall score weighting)

• Hiking Comfort (25% weighting)

• Weight and Packability (20% weighting)

• Support (15% weighting)

• Construction Quality (10% weighting)

Longtime rock climber and mountain guide Jeff Dobronyi spearheads this review. Jeff lives and breathes rock and alpine climbing, from the canyons and cliffs around his home in Boulder, Colorado, to the granite peaks of the Tetons, Sierra, and European Alps. As an internationally-licensed Mountain Guide, Jeff leads climbing trips around the world, always packing a trusty pair of approach shoes for hiking, climbing, and just walking around the streets of mountain towns everywhere. Whether he's approaching the crag or short-roping guests through complex alpine rock terrain, his life and livelihood often rely on his approach shoes to get the job done and keep him attached to the mountain.

Also contributing to this review are seasoned dirtbags and GearLab review editors Matt Bento and Sean Haverstock. Traveling around the country in his van, Matt's spent countless hours hiking to the base of many crags. Over the last ten-plus years, he's dedicated his life to climbing and living in many world-class climbing areas. Sean has worn and tested approach shoes in all imaginable scenarios and conditions, from fast-and-light ropeless ascents in the Sierra to heavy-and-slow slogs to far-off basecamps in the Himalayas and over one hundred descents off Yosemite Big Walls. He has spent the better part of the last 12 years in an approach shoe.

Analysis and Test Results

We compare and contrast each model to the most similar products to help you make an informed decision. For each shoe, we identify strengths and weaknesses and share the activities that suit it best. You'll find detailed descriptions of our evaluation metrics and the top scorers in each.

Value

In general, the approach shoes in our review are relatively similar in price. That said, there are deals to be had, and some less-expensive options perform nearly as well as much more expensive shoes. The Scarpa Crux offers the best bang for the buck, especially if climbing ability is most important. These shoes climb nearly as well as the best shoes on the market, at a lower price. If you are looking for an inexpensive approach shoe for aid climbing, the La Sportiva Boulder X is a highly supportive and comfortable shoe that excels at standing in aiders and crushing miles on the trail.

Climbing Ability

The primary reason for wearing approach shoes is to have an advantage in rocky, technical terrain, compared to a running shoe or hiking boot. Good approach shoes enhance our movement abilities in high-consequence terrain and keep us safely attached to the mountain. For that reason, this important metric contributes 30% of each model's overall score.

Earning our highest praise for climbing ability, we find the La Sportiva TX Guide to be the best shoe for smearing, edging, and crack climbing due to its precise, narrow fit and stiff midsole. In this shoe, we can confidently push on small edges, smear on scary slabs, and jam into cracks without fear of popping off the rock. This performance is enhanced by the use of Vibram MegaGrip rubber, which is also found on the La Sportiva TX4 and the Scarpa Rapid and Crux.

The La Sportiva TX2 Evo performs nearly as well on the rock, offering excellent sensitivity on slabs and tiny holds thanks to its relatively thin sole. It also has a low-profile toe box that can fit into smaller cracks than any other approach shoe on the market. The downside to this thin sole is less hiking comfort, but these slipper-like shoes aren't meant to be worn for long walks. The Scarpa Crux also climbs remarkably well and does so for less money than some of the La Sportiva models.

Another great choice is the Scarpa Mescalito Planet. With a stiffer last than the La Sportiva models and the same Vibram rubber, these shoes are great for edging and crack climbing. They lack some feel for delicate slab climbs, but overall, these shoes climb very well and are the best choice for users with wide feet who also value climbing ability.

Often, we find that the approach shoes with good climbing ability are not comfortable when used for long hiking approaches. This is likely due to the fact that thin, yet stiff soles are best for climbing, but thick and flexible soles produce good hiking comfort. The award-winning La Sportiva TX4 and Salewa Wildfire 2 are more comfortable for hiking than the soft climbing-focused approach shoes, yet climb very well nonetheless, and strike a good balance for users who need a shoe that can both climb and hike long distances.

Hiking Comfort

Many crags and alpine routes require long and arduous approaches on rugged backcountry trails. For these objectives, an approach shoe that hikes comfortably might be more important than a shoe that can climb well. Our rating for comfort contributes 25% to each product's overall score. We assess approach shoes for hiking comfort while carrying light loads, not overnight packs.

Comfort is determined largely by how well a particular shoe fits your foot. We try to increase our certainty in this subjective metric by asking for as many user testimonials as possible to determine if the shoe fits a wide range of users or just a minority. We recommend trying on several models to evaluate which fits your foot best while assessing if it's appropriate for your technical needs. It's important to note that there is a compromise when you choose your size. Size down a half or full size from your street shoe, and you'll get better climbing performance, but this can become uncomfortable on long approaches. Beyond selecting a proper fit, and especially if you only plan to buy a single pair, be sure to choose a shoe that's tailored toward how you will use them.

The Scarpa Rapid is our favorite shoe to wear when covering many miles while carrying light loads. This shoe is similar to a robust trail running shoe, with the addition of sticky Vibram MegaGrip rubber to enhance its performance on technical terrain and talus. A thick, cushioned midsole absorbs small roughness on the trail, making backcountry travel a pleasant, comfortable proposition. These shoes are on the wide side, but narrow-footed testers report a good fit for them thanks to the well-designed lace pattern.

If the terrain becomes more rugged or the packs a bit heavier, the La Sportiva TX4 emerges as the most comfortable hiking shoe in our selection. These shoes feature a comfortable midsole and supportive leather upper, along with a generously roomy fit that can accommodate all foot sizes. The Scarpa Mescalito Planet is similarly stiff and supportive, with a thickly padded sole for long days on the trail.

Finally, we'd be remorseful not to mention the Black Diamond Mission LT with its sock-like liner. After a few trudges up and off some Sierra peaks, we never experienced a grain of the kitty-litter-like dirt the Sierra is known for making its way into our shoes.

Weight & Packability

Weight is an important concern for approach shoe users because we often have to carry our approach shoes in a pack or clipped to the back of a harness when climbing. And if technical roped pitches aren't part of the day, a heavier shoe will slow us down over the course of an objective, which could lead to less fun, longer recovery times, and, in extreme cases, potential injury. We like our approach shoes light, but the lightest shoes often sacrifice performance.

The Black Diamond Session is the lightest model in our review, weighing in at around 10 ounces per shoe in size 13 (our lead tester has huge feet). Featuring a thin mesh upper and thin rubber sole, these shoes are like slippers, but unfortunately, they lack performance in most other metrics. We use these shoes for short approaches to difficult climbs where weight savings are important, and the approach and descent are trivial. The La Sportiva TX2 Evo weighs a little more at around 13 ounces per shoe and is our preferred lightweight option because it provides weight savings while also climbing and hiking very well. Furthermore, the TX2 Evo has elastic bands on each heel midsole that wrap around the shoes when paired together, keeping them in a tight package for clipping to the back of a harness or stuffing them into a pack.

The Scarpa Rapid, which is basically a mountain running shoe with sticky rubber, clocks in around 14 ounces per shoe and is also a good option for gram-counters. The Black Diamond Mission LT also comes in a lightweight package, but we'd rather opt for the top-ranked La Sportiva TX Guide, which is relatively lightweight and provides excellent performance. The TX Guide is somewhat packable as well, thanks to a flexible mesh polyester upper.

If you only plan on wearing approach shoes to the bottom of the crag, or don't care about weight, most other approach shoes weigh only a little more per pair than the lighter options. For example, the affordable Scarpa Crux is also fairly light and packable, and you probably won't notice the difference between this shoe and the TX Guide. The Salewa Wildfire 2 and Scarpa Gecko are about average for weight in the approach shoe market, and both feel light and nimble on the trail.

Support

Foot support is important when carrying heavy loads, but even a "rope, rack, and the shirt on your back" weighs a fair bit. A more supportive shoe means less pain when the approaches get long, and your pack gets heavy. Support is also important for a shoe's edging, crack climbing, and aid climbing performance. When standing in slings and aiders for hours on end, you'll want a stiff and supportive outsole to prevent the sling from pinching your feet all day. All else being equal, a more supportive shoe will edge and crack climb better, especially when carrying a heavy pack. The support metric contributes 15% of the total scores.

The most supportive shoes in our review are the La Sportiva Boulder X and Scarpa Mescalito Planet. The former is designed to be stiff for long days standing in aiders on aid climbs and big walls, and the latter is stiff for long-distance hiking performance through rugged terrain. Neither shoe bends much when standing in a sling, and they are both great candidates for long hikes, whether or not a technical objective lies at the end.

Not far behind, the La Sportiva TX Guide also has great support for long days on rough trails and standing in aiders. The La Sportiva TX4, our preferred shoe for big wall climbing, has excellent support, in addition to bomber durability, plenty of comfort, and good climbing performance, all attributes needed for the world's largest rock faces. The Scarpa Crux also has plenty of support, and costs less than the rest of the products on the market.

Construction Quality

Approach shoes take a beating, whether they're crushing miles on backcountry trails, smearing up sharp granite slabs, or scraping against rock while you stand in aiders on a big wall. They are torqued into cracks, bent into crevices in talus fields, and dragged up chimneys while clipped to the back of a harness. They should be built to last a long time and stand up to the abuse that we put them through to a reasonable limit.

The Scarpa Mescalito Planet impressed us with its durability. The stiff polyester uppers are bomber, and a thick rubber rand covers the toes while a rubberized heel guard protect the back of the shoe. Metal eyelets ensure that the laces won't blow out anytime soon. We appreciate this attention to construction quality, especially considering that they are one of the most expensive approach shoes on the market.

The burly and affordable Scarpa Crux is well constructed, and we know plenty of people wearing their Cruxes many years after their initial purchase. The La Sportiva TX4 is well-made with sturdy leather uppers and durable Vibram MegaGrip soles. These shoes can take a beating, as verified by our testers who chuck laps up big walls in Yosemite and Zion. The last thing you want when you're ten pitches up a big wall is for your shoes to fall apart.

Unfortunately, our favorite approach shoe for narrow feet, the La Sportiva TX Guide, showed some poor construction quality during our test period. Early on, we noticed that both midsoles were delaminating from the uppers on the insides of the big toe. This is disappointing for an otherwise excellent approach shoe, but our concern for their long-term durability was echoed in reports from other professional mountain guides and in our experience after testing them for another year.

We still feel comfortable recommending these shoes for their great performance in other metrics, but we need to warn potential users that they should expect to shoe-glue these soles back onto the shoes at some point during their lifespan.

Conclusion

Choosing the best approach shoes can be daunting, but we've compiled this review to help you sort through the options and choose the right pair for your needs. We tested lightweight shoes that climb like slippers and disappear into a pack, and shoes that will carry you up rugged trails and the biggest walls in the world. Armed with the information we've provided, you should feel confident to start your journey toward finding the perfect pair of approach shoes for your next objective or for your lifestyle. Thanks for reading, and we'll see you in the mountains!